Wednesday, April 23, 2008

Best shave ever, so far - SOTD

This morning I had time to shave. I haven't shaved for a while so my beard hair was pretty long (still stubble though). I'm not sure if this had anything to do with the quality of the shave or the lack of irritation, but I've had my beard this long before with results not even close to today's.

I think the BIGGEST difference between past shaves and today's was that I used the Geo F. Trumper's Coral Skin Food as a pre-shave application instead of the Proraso cream. I'm talking about putting it under the lather before I shave... not even applying it and letting it sit for a long time before my shower, etc, as I've done before with the Proraso.

I took my shower, and I did apply conditioner to my beard area and let that sit for a while, but I've been following that procedure forever, so that's not new. After my shower, I actually dried off my face this time (which I haven't been doing to allow more water to soak into my beard before shaving). I then went to the sink and made the decision to try the Trumper's Skin Food instead of the Proraso cream. Then, almost immediately, applied a lather over top of it. Once again I used my Dovo Silvertip Travel Brush, and I noticed that, like my Edwin Jagger, after having used the Proraso shaving cream for the first time with this brush on my last shave, the bristles didn't seem to want to take on water... like it was almost repelling the water. I noticed this trend on my Edwin Jagger but only thought it might be the Proraso shaving cream causing this. Now that it is happening with the Dovo brush, I think that is truly the cause and I may start thinking about trying a different shaving cream. At any rate, the fact that it repels water made it slightly harder to build a proper lather, but I got it going.

On my first pass, with the grain, I noticed that MOST of my stubble was gone already. This was QUITE odd, as my first pass even with shorter stubble has left more hair than this time. Also, in the past when I have had longer stubble, my first pass then left longer stubble as well, so I was a bit shocked. I rinsed and lathered again and was able to go very easily across the grain. At this point, my stubble was almost indistinguishable. I rinsed again and felt I could actually go against the grain and did! No irritation or skipping from the razor, and only the slightest single weeper after my ATG pass. I used the alum block because I did have that one weeper and I like the feeling the alum block provides. I hardly had any stinging when I applied it. I finished up with an application of the Trumper's Skin Food and couldn't believe how smooth my face was!

I will definitely be ordering a bigger bottle of the Skin Food and use my current smaller one for travel purposes. This stuff is AWESOME! I am also thinking about buying some of the Geo F. Trumper shaving cream. I think I'm going to go for a tub of cream instead of the tube. It costs less per fluid ounce and I think it may travel better anyway. I still think I like the shaving creams much better than the soaps, but I haven't tried more than one soap so it's really not an honest comparison.

Oh, one other thing, the Personna blade performed very well again. I can't remember if this was its 3rd use or not, but it worked very well for me.

Sunday, April 20, 2008

Been tough to post, but going well

My shaves are getting better with less nicks, weepers or razor burn. I still get some weepers now and then, but nicks haven't happened lately. I am also able to shave at a much quicker pace, so shaving is not taking me forever. I can still fall prey to trying to get the closest shave ever, but with my new combination of Gillette Fat Boy, Personna blade and new found blade angle I am only getting some weepers that the alum block takes care of. Before, with my Vision and Merkur Super Plaitnum blades, I was getting some bad nicks that required two applications of the liquid nick relief. I think most of this may have to do with the blade change more so than the razor, but I'm sticking with what I have for now. One thing about the blades though... they don't seem to be lasting as long as the Merkur's. I say this because they don't seem to slice through hairs well after three uses. They're cheap enough that it really doesn't matter, and the Gillette Fusion $3.50 per cartridge I was using before wouldn't get me more than 3 passes either. One last thing on razors, I REALLY like the feel of the Gillette Fat Boy over the Vision. I think it's because the weight is nice and heavy, yet the handle and dimensions are smaller. I love the Vision, don't get me wrong, but I think I'm still too green to use it affectively.

I got some new products recently, one of which I haven't been able to try yet because I can't figure out how to store it after I use it. That being the Musgo Real Glyce Lime Oil soap. It is supposed to soften the beard making it easier to cut. The problem is that it comes in plastic wrap, but nothing to sit it in after you use it under water... I just haven't figured out where to keep it yet, and I can't keep it out on the counter since I share a bathroom with my young kids who tend to like to explore. The other things I got are Geo F. Trumper's Skin Food in the lime scent and Hugo Boss Energise cologne. The Trumper's Skin Food smells like lime jellybeans and I want to eat it... unfortunately, it says "Caution: For external use only" on the bottle. :-( Fortunately, it makes my skin feel awesome after a shave and even when I use the alum block! My skin still feels great even the next day. As for the Hugo Boss cologne, I was thinking it was the same as my older version of Hugo Boss cologne who's bottle looks like a canteen. It's not. The scent is a bit different, but I like it. It's also very strong only requiring one squirt to last a day. The Musgo Real soap and Trumper's Skin Food I got from Sesto Senso, and the Hugo Boss cologne I got from a guy on the ShaveMyFace.com forum. I think the price for the Trumper's was higher at Sesto Senso than it is at other online stores, but I was actually on Sesto Senso's site because they had the cheapest Proraso Aftershave Balm AND shipping which certainly impacts pricing. I decided to go with the skin food over the Proraso ASB, and I think I'm happy about that.


On "Shave's of the Day", I don't know that I'll post any more of these unless I have anything of note to post with. So far, since my last SOTD post things have been uneventful... in a very GOOD way. Granted, I continue to get better at my technique, etc, so that's pleasant, but nothing majorly new.

OH! One thing that I did just last night because it's been bugging me to try it... I used my Dovo Silvertip Travel Brush instead of the Edwin Jagger, AND I built the lather directly on my face like when I travel. I hate to say it, but I like it a LOT better than the Edwin Jagger and the mug (though I think the lack of using the mug had less to do with it). My reason is because the brush is MUCH smaller on the Dovo and I like this better for moving the lather around my face. It also seemed to build a lather very quickly and didn't seem to get lost in the brush. I've made mention before that I was leaning toward the idea of liking a smaller brush. I think this may clinch it. The Edwin Jagger is a great brush, but the bristles are so long I feel like they are all over the place. I don't know if I want to use my Dovo Travel Brush at home all the time, so I may look for a smaller brush like it for home use and keep the Dovo for traveling only. We'll see.

Saturday, April 12, 2008

Saturday's bliss - SOTD

Went with the Fat Boy again and loving it! Today I had started to get ready for the shower but had to wait for my 6 yr old daughter to take one since she just got home from lacrosse and needed to go to a birthday party. I put on the Proraso Pre-shave cream and it got to sit on my beard forever... it actually sank into my skin most of the way by the time I could hop in the shower. This resulted in a very soft beard for me... but I don't think I will ever have that luxury of time to leave it on again.

I would guess that this affected my shave for the better. The shave did go well with only a few weepers, but NO nicks. I bumped up the blade level to 3 thinking that this would allow me to use less pressure and get a closer shave. I used 3 passes, with the third including minor touch-ups. I didn't go full-on ATG, but the shave is pretty darn close. Some areas are MUCH more sensitive than others and prone to blade skipping/tugging which would cause nicks, so I avoid ATG on those areas and when I do go over them I use even lighter pressure.

I only used the Proraso Pre cream on the first and second pass. The third was strictly lather. After my shave I decided to use the alum block because of the weepers and this completely took care of the bleeding and didn't sting as much as previous shaves. I then let that sit on my face and cleaned my gear. Once finish cleaning I rinsed it off and used my Aqua Velva Ice Sport aftershave splash... this still burned a bit, but not bad.

That was it and I feel great about the shave. It didn't take long and came out nice. Equipment was the same as Thursday's except where noted.

Friday, no time - SOTD

Friday I just couldn't find the time to shave, so I took the day off. Probably good for my face anyway. ;-)

Thursday, April 10, 2008

Thursday... pleasant - SOTD

Once again I reached for the Fat Boy, having had such a good shave with it yesterday.

My prep, if I haven't mentioned in an earlier post, has become wetting my face and applying a thick layer of the Proraso Pre/Post shaving cream before getting into the shower. I try to let it sit on my beard for as long as possible and will sometimes brush my teeth after applying it, but before getting into the shower. Once I get out of the shower, I don't dry my face with the towel and then wet it some more after I finish drying my body off. I then put more Proraso cream on, but much more diluted than before getting in the shower. I let that sit on my beard while I make my lather, then I slap the lather over the cream on my face. While this is sitting on there, I start to get all my shaving gear out and ready... so hopefully it sits on my face about two minutes.

Starting my shave, I really like the Fat Boy! This time, like last time, I tried to make sure I was using proper blade angle... almost faulting on the side of the blade not even touching my face. However, I feel like the adjustment of the blade set at 2 is not aggressive enough, and I fear this is making me apply more pressure than I should. I did not adjust the blade this time, but next time I may set it to 3 and see if I feel okay with almost no pressure. With this said, the shave was wonderful again... in fact, it was so wonderful that I (being as impatient as I am) decided I could try against the grain in some areas. I may have gotten just a tad over zealous trying this so close to my last incident, but all in all it went VERY well!! Honestly, I had several weepers in one area, but nothing like I've had in the past from using the Vision with the Merkur blade and not even trying to go ATG!! So, in my book, this shave was a total success!

I am thinking, for the time being, the Fat Boy is my go to razor and the only thing I'm going to use for a while. I may adjust the blade to 3 to see what effect that has, but I want to get some solid shaves under my belt before trying more blades in this razor. So far, I am very pleased with the Personna. I see a lot of people saying that they can get them at Walmart, but I don't think my local Walmart carries them. :-( We'll see. Besides... there may be much better blades out there for me once my technique is solid. ;-)

***********EDIT**************
I forgot to mention my equipment list. It was essentially identical to Wednesday's list with the addition of the Alum Block for the weepers, but the Proraso Post-shave application still went very well. I think the key was thoroughly rinsing my face after the alum and making sure my beard area was very wet before applying only a small amount of the Proraso cream.

Wednesday... better - SOTD

Well, I gave my face a rest before trying again and it seems to have paid off. Although, I switched two things... actually, more than two things, but two major things that I think attributed to my pain on Sunday. Instead of the Merkur Vision 2000 and its Merkur Super Platinum blade, I chose to try my new (to me) Gillette Fat Boy and I also decided to try a Personna blade in it.

I decided a two-pass shave was in order, again to let me face rest a bit. At first I set the Fat Boy on 1, the least aggressive setting for the razor, but it hardly seemed to cut the hairs at all. I was being very mindful of blade angle this time, but it almost seemed easier with the Fat Boy razor head than it did with the Vision. I'm starting to think that the Vision should be put in my closet until I start to master my shaves, and only then be brought out again.... but I honestly think I did too many things wrong in the past with that razor. For one, I think I may have adjusted the razor too aggressively... partly by accident, partly because I thought I needed to get a bit more aggressive. The problem I have with the Vision is that the adjustment knob does not click solidly into different blade angles, but rather turns with infinite degrees. For a beginner such as myself, this is not helpful. I am sure that once I am an expert I will enjoy this ability... but for now I see myself as too green and too stoopid (being aggressive too soon, etc). So I am going to put it away for a while... besides, I really like my new Fat Boy.

The shave was truly wonderful, and I LOVE the feel of the Fat Boy in my hand and guiding it around my face at all the angles... better than both the Vision and Super Speed (so far). It never "got in the way" of trying to get the right angles and felt easy to use. And the girth of the handle and weight were equally wonderful. In addition, it gracefully glided over my skin with ease, but I think this had more to do with the following things:
  1. Blade angle - I made an effort to hold the blade more parallel with the area of my face I was shaving instead of dragging the blade across my skin.
  2. For my lather, I did not use the Super Lather, but rather just chose to use the Proraso shaving cream.
  3. I diluted the Proraso Pre shave cream MUCH more this time. I'm not sure if this had an impact.
  4. The Personna blade - I am wondering if the Merkur Super Platinum blades are just too sharp or something. This feeling may have more to do with the next bullet.
  5. Lower blade setting - I think this had the most to do with it. The blade was very close to razor, so it was practically impossible to drag across my skin.
Anyway, not going for the closest shave had a lot to do with it I'm sure. Only two passes, so I wasn't really killing myself. I only did a WTG and XTG trying to get perpendicular to the grain as much as possible in all areas.

I had read some stuff on the shaving forums and found that some people really enjoyed the Proraso Pre/Post cream as an aftershave. I realized the alum block was causing the cream to damn near curdle, and THAT was why I didn't like it at all. Plus, this time when I applied it as a pre-shave cream and diluted it a lot with water I saw that I could definitely like it as an aftershave... so I decided NOT to use the alum block since I wasn't going for an aggressive shave, and try the Proraso cream very diluted as an aftershave. I liked it quite a bit... but I still felt like I needed a moisturizing ASB and used my AoS Lemon ASB which makes my face feel nice and supple.

Equipment:
  • Gillette Fat Boy
  • Personna blade
  • Proraso Pre-shaving Cream (before first pass only, diluted by having very wet face and using less cream, let sit for about 2 minutes)
  • Proraso (green) Shaving Cream (before first pass I let it sit on for about 2 minutes)
  • Edwin Jagger Super Badger Brush
  • Pinaud Clubman Liquid Nick Relief
  • Proraso Post-shaving Cream as an aftershave
  • Art of Shaving Lemon Aftershave Balm

Tuesday, April 8, 2008

Sunday's disaster - SOTD

I can admit it... I'm an idiot some times. For Sunday's shave, being that I was going to have a pleasant night with my lovely wife (rare opportunity with 4 active kids), I wanted to get the closest shave EVER! Doh!

To start out, I still had a little razor burn on my upper lip from Saturday's shave (truth be told, my upper lip has been very tender ever since I shaved my goatee off... it has had hair on it with no razor contact for over 10 years, so I can understand it being shocked lately), but it wasn't really that bad. I had a few ingrowns, but all in all I wasn't in too bad of shape. Today, I thought, I'm going against the grain for the ultimate BBS shave... stoopid.

I kept to my technique that I have been following this past week which was working well for me. Essentially identical to Saturday's shave as far as equipment and technique, but I decided to put in a brand new Merkur Super Platinum blade to avoid nicks and tugging. I'll spare you the boring (by now) prep and lather babble (again, it was just like Saturday's). Instead of WTG, XTG, XTG, XTG cleanup heavy areas, stop... I decided to go WTG, XTG, XTG, ATG. I was trying to use very little pressure, but I found that, especially on the ATG pass, the razor was skipping and hopping a lot. I thought a new blade would cure this, but my guess is (now) my face just wasn't ready for how aggressive I was getting with my razor path in conjunction with the growth of my hair. The blood started flowing from a lot of areas.

After it was over, while my face and neck were very smooth with no stubble, everything was very red... especially my upper lip! In fact, almost 48 hours later and my upper lip is still bright red and there is discomfort. I am going to need to possibly give my face a 3rd day off or more just to let it heal from the razor burn. Whew... I hope I don't make this mistake again.

Though... one thing popped into my head today (also after foraging some of the newbie forums)... I wonder if part of the problem is the Merkur Super Platinum blades?? I mean, I don't think I EVER have gotten a shave yet without at least 2-3 nicks, and that's without going against the grain. I kept blaming my technique and prep, but I may just try a different blade and possibly even razor (one of my new Fat Boy's), but changing too many things really is not scientific at all or at least impossible to tell which made the difference. I do want to try my Fat Boy though. ;-)

Sunday, April 6, 2008

RAD took hold... quick and strong

RAD
Function: acronym

Razor Acquisition Disorder

I'm a sucker for cool stuff, and if I get a hankering for somethin' I tend to go overboard. I'm a big time gadget geek and also a compulsive spender (unfortunately for my wallet/finances).

I immediately started out with two razors: A used 1954 Gillette Super Speed (in great condition); and a brand new Merkur Vision 2000. These only seemed to whet my appetite as I began to see all of the different vintage razors out there on the forums and then on eBay. I love vintage stuff anyway, and the whole Double Edge wet shaving experience is a blast from the past, so why NOT have some old razors from the era?


Well, after looking at many different razors that are out there and available, I fell in love with the Gillette Fat Boy. I placed a bid on one that a guy from one of the shaving boards was selling on eBay, but it wouldn't end for like 4 days (I'm impatient). I fairly quickly got outbid and I didn't want to go over my maximum... so I looked around and found one in possibly better shape that also came in the original case and the case was also in better shape that the other I was looking at. This auction ended sooner, so I put in my same bid. I then saw a guy raising my bid, but didn't go over my high bid yet. I also continued to look around at what else was available and found another Fat Boy in very good condition, without the case though, and the bidding was ending very soon... minutes even. I figured I would probably lose the one with the case, so I decided to snipe this one and see if I got it. I sniped it with the same maximum bid as the other with only 30 seconds to go and I WON it! ... Uh oh... I was still winning the other one. This one cost me close to my maximum on the other one. I hadn't wanted to spend that much money, but I figured I could turn around and sell it if I needed/wanted to.

As I was looking, I found another Gillette that I had interest in... the Gillette Super Speed Red Tip. This has a much beefier handle, like the Fat Boy, but no adjustments. It had NO bidders, was in decent shape (obviously some wear though), and was starting at $0.99. I figured I would pay up to $10 for it and the auction was ending around the same time as the other Fat Boy. So I put in $10 as my maximum and left the rest, on both, to fate. Well, someone bumped me up to $8.25, but I won it... I ALSO won the other Fat Boy (mixed emotions), and for less than the first one I won.

I already got the first Fat Boy I won. It IS in good shape! I haven't used it yet because I thought I might turn around and sell it, but the one person I was interested in trading it with for a 1972 razor (my birth year) didn't want it. I then thought about it for a moment and decided that, if I do like the Fat Boy, having two might be a really great thing! I can take one on my travels and not worry so much about the possibility of it getting stolen. At the same time, I'm VERY interested in getting my wife into DE wet shaving, and she might like the Fat Boy too.

The other Fat Boy with its case, and the SS Red Tip should arrive in the mail on Monday, so I'm anxious to see what they look like. Hopefully the Red Tip isn't in too bad of shape. There were a share of hi-res pictures, but they weren't all in focus and there was an annoying orange light, like an auto-focus light, and that made it difficult to see just how good of shape it was in. It may have been intentional to hide rusting and brassing, but other pictures of the same sides without the orange light but further distance didn't appear to show any of those signs.

Anyway, now I own 5 DE razors after only starting a week and a half ago. YIKES! I think I just hit the brakes and my next razor purchase will be a 1972 razor in really good/excellent shape. ;-)

Saturday, April 5, 2008

Got my HUGE DE Blade Sampler

I got my Tryphon Sampler Pack #5 (Huge) which comes with 165 blades!! It was only $40 shipped to my door. I'm pretty sure that's cheaper than what I paid for a 16 pack of Gillette Fusion cartridges from Sam's Club!! I got the idea from LeisureGuy's book and his topic of trying as many different blades in your razors as you can because each blade/person/razor is different. So the only way to find your perfect combination is by experimenting with different blades... the more the better!

While I may actually throw away (or give away) some of the packs of those blades if they don't work for me, it should still get me by on needing to buy razors for quite some time (6 months possibly). I REALLY think you should look at LeisureGuy's method for trying different blades because it makes a lot of sense (I'm talking about how to try different blades, being not one after another, but rather a more scientific and controlled test to see the differences). Based on this, I am NOT trying the different blades (in the same razor) yet until I get my technique down better, which is mainly razor angle which ALSO differs between razors, sometimes greatly.

I will probably post quite a bit on my blade findings, but remember it is all subjective and very personal.

Back from trip... Shave of the Day

Saturday - Once again I had a late day shower/shave. Today, because I'm an idiot and impatient, I went for a BBS shave. I used four passes... actually four and a half. I used the Vision again, for consistency sake, and it performed well. I think the blade is on its last leg though.

I'm still "getting" the razor angle down and still having trouble maneuvering the neck areas. You also need to understand that my neck hairs grow all over the frickin' place as far as direction of hair, so it's not even remotely easy. I am still getting nicks, but overall the razor burn is much decreased... which I am relating to better blade angle.

My Proraso stuff and Alum Block came in from Em's Place, so I was anxious to use it. Woofta... nice menthol scent to wake you up and clear the sinuses. ;-)

Prep
After taking my shower I did not dry my face and then wet it even more from the sink and put the Proraso Pre/Post Shave Cream on fairly thick and let it sit for a while as I setup the rest of my stuff. I decided to try the "Super Lather" that LeisureGuy mentions in his book which consists of shaving soap as well as shaving cream. So I did my same trick of soaking my Aloe Vera soap and the Apothecary Mug in hot water while showering. Then I charged the Super Badger brush with the soap and added to the tip a dollop of the Proraso shaving cream and created the lather in the mug. I had to add a bit more water than I expected as it was rather thick and sticky to begin with. I may have actually overdone it a little with the water in the end, but the lather held up well, so maybe this was best yet (I have no "real" point of reference to compare it to) . I then let the lather sit on my beard longer than I ever have (not sure if it was two minutes, but it felt like it).

Shave
I first tried to follow the grain on ALL parts of my face (not easy, but I think I did well... no nicks on the first pass... a first for me). Next I tried XTG from one direction, then I relathered and tried the other direction. Since there was still a bit of stubble (keep in mind I started with a LOT longer stubble because of skipping about 36+ hours), I decided to do another XTG pass but somewhere between XTG and ATG. This got most areas BBS, but there were still some areas on my neck and chin that were being stubborn. So I lathered again, left it on for a little bit, then, feeling around with my left hand (razor in my right), I felt for those stubborn areas and did very short and light ATG passes, moving the remaining lather back over those areas if needed, and got a very nice BBS surface. There were nicks for sure, but not too bad considering how many passes I made and went ATG.

Post shave
Having the Alum Block, I was anxious to see how well it worked and what it would do for my shaving experience. I rinsed my face first with warm, then with cold water and made sure it was dripping wet. I then took the Alum Block and rubbed it ALL over my face. While LeisureGuy says it doesn't stop bleeding like styptic or the nick relief, it did do a fair job at stopping the bleeding from most of those areas. It also burned like an aftershave on the first pass, but subsequent passes over any area did not sting at all. It was a VERY pleasant experience and my neck/face looked/felt great! I then used my liquid nick relief for the two or three areas still showing some blood (not much blood at all mind you... not like before I ran the alum block over them) and finished off with the Aqua Velva Ice Sport aftershave... this yielded zero burn (I'm assuming because the Alum block already took care of that). I decided to try the Proraso Pre/Post Shave Cream and did NOT have a pleasant experience here. I'm thinking what happened was because of the Alum Block, but this time the Proraso cream felt almost sticky and kind of spun into little bits of putty... weird. SO, I don't see me ever using the Proraso Pre/Post Shave Cream for post application again. I REALLY liked the AoS Aftershave Balm when I used it, but I wonder if it would have the same effect after the alum block... a test is in order my next shave. Also, on the Proraso cream, while the scent and texture was great as a pre-shave cream, I didn't like it for after the shave. On the topic of texture though, what I noticed on my first pass, the only pass I made with the Proraso cream under the lather, the cream created a very hard to wash out layer of "gunk" under my razor blade. So, I'm not sure if I like that either... the scent as a pre-shave application was nice though... and I think it made a difference on my first pass, but I'm not positive.

Equipment:
  • Merkur Vision 2000
  • Merkur Super Platinum blade (I think on it's last use, but may use it once more to see)
  • Proraso Pre-shaving Cream (before first pass only, let sit for about 2 minutes)
  • Edwin Jagger Aloe Vera soap and Proraso (green) Shaving Cream for "Super Lather" (before first pass I let it sit on for about 2 minutes)
  • Edwin Jagger Super Badger Brush
  • Alum Block (all over face)
  • Pinaud Clubman Liquid Nick Relief
  • Aqua Velva Ice Sport aftershave
  • Proraso Post-shaving Cream (did not like as a post shave application)